Saturday, May 26, 2012

Rauzes has gone AWOL

Rauzes has gone AWOL due to exams.

Please check back here in 2 weeks time for any updates on his survival.

In the mean time, please enjoy the following blogs:
http://herocfv.blogspot.com/
http://cardfightersunite.blogspot.com/

Friday, May 25, 2012

Spectral Halberd


Ciao a tutti, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing Spectral Duke Dragon... 's two play styles.

Spectral Duke Dragon's ride chain has two effects, one from the ride chain itself, and one from Spectral duke's limit break.

Now, Spectral Duke's limit break has the same cost as Damned Charging Lance from Phantom Blaster Dragon.

Is it better?
yes. yes it is.

Lets calculate!
Lets say you boost with 8k, and both are 11k power.
For Phantom Blaster, you have to feed during the main phase, pumping him up to 29k attack and 2 crit.
If the opponent is 11k, that means theyll throw 25k guard total, or a null guard.

For Spectral Duke, when you attack first, its 15k guard(2 triggers to hit), followed by him using his limit break, standing, and attacking again.
Assuming you got 0 triggers and did not put power to Spectral duke, which you should have(but stand/crit to rear guard), that would be 10k to guard.
Hence, Spectral Duke burns out 25k Guard MINIMUM, and avoids the null guard problem.

Phantom Blaster Dragon, however, has Phantom blaster overlord so its still tier 1 imbaness.

However, one time you must keep in mind is that losing 3 rear guards, no matter what stage in the game, is a heavy cost, so either effect it is best to use only once.

The second effect is the Ride chain.
When you ride G2 and G3 of the chain, by retiring one rear guard, you may call the top 2 cards of your deck(if the deck is all GP).

Hence, by sacrificing one card, you gain 2 RG. By sacrificing one of those, you gain another 2.
So, you gain 2 Rear guards for no cost(almost)

Using this effect, you can either get a bunch of boost units in early game, and start pushing in damage, or have out several G2 and G3 attackers easily.
And lets hope the opponent doesnt be on the receiving end of G2 Ride -> Call 2 Manawydan/Gigantic Destroyer.

Now, this does come with the risk. The risk of calling weak G0 triggers.

My advice, however, is to just call these guys out.
Although your deck trigger count is lower, triggers in the deck represent "potential" power, whilst cards on the field are outright THERE, and doing stuff for you already.

Like I mentioned before in Rush VS Control, early game 5k boosts are really powerful, but they just suck late game, need to be retired to replace, and hence would represent a loss in advantage.

UNLESS
You could retire them to fuel certain effects, such as Granblue, Phantom Blaster, and Spectral Duke.

Now, there are two ways to utilize Spectral Duke's limit break effect.

The first way is how most people are thinking of using it: To push damage/burn out hand in either an attempt to Final turn, or to set up for it.

In this style, people would play 6 crit/6 draw.

Since its pretty obvious how to use it, and I'm sure many of the other blogs you are reading are talking on and on about how imba it is, lets skip that.

Basically, you will see when you can limit break, identify which units you want to consider killing, and just go and attack Rear guard first, then vanguard, use limit break, killing the 3 rested, drive check again, and then attack with the trigger pumped final unit.

If, for instance, your enemy is at 4 damage, make your rear guard have critical up in order to force as many hand cards as possible, to set up final turn. dont bother trying to finish off the enemy by sticking trigger to the Vanguard(unless they no Guard, in which case they are really asking for it)

The other way of using Spectral Duke's ability is to re-construct your field.

In the early game, lower power lines are needed. Most G2 vanguards are only 9k, so in early game damage pushing, its nice to have 19k lines(Manawydan boosted by 7k, etc.)
However, once you get to G3, most units are 11k already, if not more.

Since you dont want to sacrifice units to replace them (most of the time, just a bad play), the trick is to control and attack the opponent until your hand has enough cards to replace the units you want to replace, or most of them, then limit break, kill off the weak, and replace your field and continue burning cards the next turn.

This works well if you superior call/normal call a bunch of triggers from Wortimers effect, etc.

For instance.
your field is:
Manawydan, Spectral Duke, Valkyrie(8k)
Feather Knight(4k), Raging horse(6k), and Gareth.

And your opponents Vanguard is
Draconic Overlord THE END(with Cross Ride)

As you would know, basically all your power lines are useless crap and you need to attack for more than 18k.
SO.
If your hand was:
Mark, draw trigger, Beaumans, Slaygal Dagger, and a 10k.

Attack with all the units, use limit break to kill off that Feather knight, Raging Horse, and Valkyrie, and stand again.
The next turn, you could call slaygal dagger behind the Vanguard or Manawydan to form 18k lines(but Id reccomend behind Manawydan. CB2 for 23k, anyone?). Then, call Beaumans in front of Gareth for the 18k Line.
Note that the hand was before the drive check, so youll probally be getting another G1 to boost with as well.

Thats all for today.

Arrivederci, frog.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Emperor

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing the deck of the man called Emperor, Dimension Police.

Lets start with the decklist:

4 Enigman Storm
3 Miracle Beauty

3 Enigman Wave
3 Cosmo BEAK
3 Enigroid Comrade
2 Super Dimensional Robot Dai Lady

4 Enigman Ripple
3 Kalenloid Daisy
3 Commander Laurel
3 Diamond Ace
2 Glory Maker

1 Engiman Flow
4 Cosmo FANG
4 Guide Dolphin
4 Justice Cobalt
4 Justice Rose
(8 Stand, 4 Crit, 4 Heal)

Now, for a while, Inigman Rain style decks were the in thing for DP. Seriously, who can say no to an OTK without Critical Triggers?

But, thinking about it, Laurel/Storm is much stronger because of the stability of the ride and the support in the form of Enigroid Comrade.

Lets talk commander Laurel.
While he allows your deck to take a very control/defensive stance with no problem, he will burn out your deck if youre not careful.

The trick to playing DP correctly is to balance the need for extra cards and extra control with the opportunities to go for damage.
This deck plays in 4 Critical Triggers for this precise reason: It gives your deck the much needed damage that it lacks from constantly attacking rear guards.

Decking out is a fear all DP players must face, so lets crunch some numbers, shall we?

You start with 43 Cards in the deck(draw 1).
Ride ripple, and search wave.
Deck 42.
Drive Check Deck 41.
Damage X2 = Deck 39.
Draw, Ride. Deck 38.
Use Ripple to search Storm. Deck 37.
Attack and drive check. Deck 36.
Eat Damage X2. Deck 34.
Draw, Ride storm. Deck 32.
Twin Drive. Deck 30.

Does this sound about right?
That is normal for most games that you play with Dimension Police. By the time you ride G3, your deck is close to 30 cards.

Now, Laurel's effect gives you another twin drive, so each turn you will burn 5 cards, one for draw, and 4 for 2 twin drives.

At this point, when you ride G3, the recommended number of times to activate Laurel's effect is:
At most, 5 times.

Now, if you rip triggers, you can add critical and do miracle beauty full line stands, etc. So two twin drives is a very good thing.

So, each time you double twin drive, you are missing out on chances on actually punching in damage. Dont forget to keep pushing damage in!

Keep in mind his synergy with Miracle Beauty. Ripping two stand triggers might give you a 3rd Twin Drive!

Build 20k lines on the side with Enigroid Comrade, Or strike fear with Miracle beauty.

The rear guard pressure is certainly on with 8 Stands and crits.

The reason we dont run any draw is that Laurel already gives you enough cards to survive well enough, if you play correctly.


Thats all for today.

Rauzes out

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Meta after eb03

Hello everyone
My name is Rauzes

And I am a twin drive addict.



Anyhows, today my only post is the meta after eb03.

My thoughts on the top decks, in order, are:
THE END still prevalent
MLB
Gold paladins with Garmore/Blonde Eizel
PBO style still prevalent
Gold Paladins with spectral duke
Megacolony with master beetle
Nova grapplers playing Asura/Azure
Spike brothers.

That's all for today

Friday, May 18, 2012

Control VS Rush

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing Control style versus Rush style.

Basically, in Vanguard, there are two main ways to play and aim to win: Win in the early game, or win by attrition.

Thus, from this rose the two main general playstyles of decks: Control and Rush (known in some circles as Gangbang)

In terms of deck building, by just focusing on one of these styles, you can easily build your deck well.

Of course, no single clan is purely control, nor purely rush, but they fall onto some sort of scale, where some clans are better at control and others at rush.


Basically, Rush wins by the opponent not being able to keep up guarding so many attacks with such high power, and Control wins by the opponent not being able to guard because they don't have enough cards to do so.

Although most games will end with you mixing these two play styles, its best to keep your eyes on one, and you'll realize you can win with more ease.

Lets start with Rush.

Rush styles focus on pushing in damage as soon as possible, having their attacks go over the "should guard" lines to push in damage, then following up(potentially) with high powered attacks from the Vanguard, Rear guard, and critical triggers for the win.

More or less, Rush/Gangbang styles attack all out the Vanguard, even if it is only a 5k Guard, just to keep burning cards or pushing in damage.

The "should guard" line is the concept that for optimal play.
Basically, in the early game, the amount to necessitate a guard is lower than it is in the late game.
This is for two reasons: 1: In early game, you have very few cards, and 2: You can TAKE IT WITH LIFE also, you can build up some counter blast to get your deck rolling.

For instance, on the first attack, even if the attack was a 5k Guard, you would let it through, just because that 5k Guard would better be used as a fighting unit or boost.
In the mid game, where fields are about 3-4/5 full, guard lines are about 5k to 10k, while letting through 15k Guards. At this stage, though, your 10k Guards are limited, so you still need to count and think ahead.
And in the late game, where you are at 5 damage, you guard everything for obvious reasons.

Exploiting this concept, Rush style decks would plop down their boosts early game, to push their attacks over these "should guard" lines, allowing the player to push in 4 to 5 damage in the early game.
If you played right, you can even win without your vanguards attack or rear guards attack ever clearing the 20k Line without triggers.

To put down these early game boosts, play wise, you would open with more G1s and maybe no G3, so playing this would pressure the opponent in the early game.

Deck building wise, you would want your deck to contain many higher powered boosts, such as 8ks, 9k boosts, and 7k boosts with the CB1 = 1k effect, such as Haugan, etc.
Rush style decks tend to emphasize more on swarming, deploying your units, and  making sure boost power is there than the actual quality of the rear guards, just focusing on clearing the lower power lines(15, 16k).

Examples of Rush style decks would be Gold Paladins, with their large array of superior call from top of deck for low cost effects, and Blonde Eizel's massive attacking power with his limit break.
Another example would be Garmore style Royal Paladins, with their insane ability to tutor their boost powers, and their 10 Crits(or 12, depending on how many heal they run)

I would say these are the 2 Rush styles that are more pure to the concept, since they have a variety of high attack units and share the same painful 10k Defense Vanguard problem.
That, and you dont see too many RP/GP decks that dont main 8 Criticals.

Other examples include Spike Brothers, New-style Granblue, Lawkeeper Kagerou, etc.

In Rush style decks, you have high attacking power at the cost of solid defense.

Your aim is to keep the opponent at higher damage than you, and push in for final damage before they get enough triggers to get back on their feet.

The biggest point about Rush styles is their ability to end games with Critical-in's or get you to 4-5 damage before G3.

Next up is Control style.

Control style type decks focus much more on pure card advantage, banking off the concept that an attack will go through if the enemy has zero hand to guard.

Basically, your playstyle will aim to control the game through sheer card advantage.
This means that not only does the opponent have very little hand, but you have a large hand to guard with as well.

How the deck achieves this situation is by attacking rear guards quite often, reducing their number and damage output.
Whilst in a game where you only attack the vanguard, the opponents field will be G1 boosting a G2/3, and and all their power lines well built.

However, if you constantly attack the rear guards, eventually quite a few of them will fall, faster a rate than the opponent gets them.
What this creates is a situation in which the opponent must call G0s to attack and call G1 to be boosted by G1, or the opponent will not call out units to attack.
Thus, the attack become 5k to guard, or only the vanguard attacking.

Needless to say, this means you get a sock load of advantage over the opponent in terms of your own defensive power.

In this way, you wont die easily, so feel safe sitting behind 7-8 or even more hand.
 
Keep in mind this defensive power also means defending your valuable rear guards.
Now, since rear guards tend to be smaller than the vanguard, having high enough power to constantly take out rear guards with rear guards doesnt require quite as high numbers, so you can utilize 11k units with 6-7k boosts to control well.

From this, clans that have large front row fighters but less tutor able and less powerful boost units, are more control-oriented.

Not to say that boost isnt needed. Of course it will be necessary when actually giving damage to the opponent.

One thing you must keep in mind is that if you start attacking the rear guards, the results wont set in for quite a few turns, as the opponent will easily be able to replace them.
You are trying to create a situation in which the opponent CANNOT replace the rear guards, by constantly hammering at them. Attacking them once or twice will mean the opponent definitely has something to replace it with.

Clans that are control-oriented are:
Nova Grappler(though, if you play Rush with them they are also very good), Kagerou(thanks to their increased ability to retire rear guards through effects), and Dimension Police(less retire opponents rear guards than Commander Laurel's ability giving you two twin drives per turn almost).

Kagerou is an exceptional example
For starters, they have Overlord. 11k Tank style Vanguard, who has an ability to wipe out rear guards.
They have 5 different G2 10k Units(wtf right), giving you the ability to stand gigantic at the G2 stage.(And 1 more if you count Amber, but nobody plays it.)
They have Overlord THE END, who has the ability to STAND itself and give you 2 more cards via Twin Drive
They can burn rear guards through special effects such as Kinrara and Berserk Dragon
Their units cannot clear the 20/21k line well, with only a few units being able to do so, with rather difficult/late game conditions(Minus Burning Horn)

Basically, you can play Kagerou in a way to focus purely on advantage, and be able to out-play the opponent with ease.

Less control focused examples include Narukami, Shadow Paladin, Palemoon.

The biggest point for Control styles is that If you missed a ride, for one or two turns, you can still turn it around with Control styles by slowly garnering advantage and abusing Heal triggers.

Control styles tend to go well with Stand.
Why?
Because most players can only brace for 3 attacks. Any stand trigger, although the unit stood would be weaker, would have its attack go through easier, because the opponent simply doesn't have enough cards to guard.


Now, its not that CRIT = RUSH and STND = CONTROL.
You can play a control based game with a bunch of crit, and a rush style game with a lot of stand. Theres nothing stopping you.

If you control with CRIT styles, it gives you faster card burning through guards.
For instance, if you load a critical trigger onto a RG and make it a 15k Guard, and attack the opponent when they have 4 damage, they HAVE to guard.
This situation would not happen if you played in stand instead, for instance.


Thats all for today.

Until next time, arrivederci, frog.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Null Guard!

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing precisely how many Null Guards you should use in your deck!

Now, this is the topic of great controversy in every discussion, so I'm not going to advocate which style is the best and which is "bad". However, in the competitive scene, if you're into that, you have to weigh the advantages and disadvantages to using an increased or decreased number of Null Guards.

Simply put, in deck building, certain decks can run more null guard, and some decks can run less.

For beginners, I can understand how you have maybe none or only one null guard, so just focus on getting more of them over time. Be patient and work with what you've got.

We will be discussing today the choices available for you in a "complete" deck:

2 Null Guard
3 Null Guard
and 4 Null Guard.

Because people just dont play "only one".


Null Guards are an extremely powerful class of card. Although they are G1, they function effectively as 10k Guards, or more.

However, your deck will be played differently depending on how many Null Guards you use.

For instance, in a deck with 4 Null Guards, you will be throwing them instead of a 10k + 5k, a guard that would otherwise require two cards to guard.

However, in a deck with lets say 2 Null Guards, you would want to save them for the last few attacks of the opponents Vanguard to stave off Critical wins.


Lets start with the more common numbers: 4 and 3.

Now, 4 and 3 Null guards are similar in play, just that some decks would want to play 3 instead of 4(we'll come to this later)

In this playstyle, you will be confident in the number of Null Guards left in your deck, and hence you can use them to guard any amount of attacks that have a high guard amount.
Hence, you would want to throw the null guard INSTEAD of your 10ks and 5ks, if the situation needs so.

Of course, they're useful when the opponent attacks with something requiring a 20-30k Guard, but still, dont be afraid to use them for protecting your RGs.

Also, you may ride one in order to gain some form of early game advantage, such as in NN.

Another condition that will allow your deck to run 4 Null Guards with no hitch would be playing more than 6 DRAW triggers.
Heck, when you DO play 6-8 Draw triggers, your deck almost needs those 4 Null Guards to in order to compensate for the lost Guard power from the triggers.

In decks such as Granblue, there is WAS some controversy as to how many Null Guards you would like to use.
First off, it is one method of pitching units to the drop zone from your hand.
On the other hand, Granblue had already 16 10k Shields, And would probally also play in 2-3 Chappie the Ghost, another 10k Shield. With this many 10k guards, do you really need 4 Nulls?

However, with the advent of Granblue draw triggers, this has gone down the drain.
Chappie is less used and only played in 1 and 2s, and 3 seems to be the magic number for Granblue with no draws, and 4 for the ones with 4.

In decks such as Neo Nectar, players will play 3 for one specfic reason: Because playing 4 would mean dropping the amount of powerful boost units.
In Neo Nectar, one of the strongest plays you can open with is a Ride 7k and plop an 8k behind Shield seed, swing in and level up Shield Seed to Blade seed behind the Vanguard.
 Nobody calls Shield seed behind the Vanguard, unless you already are holding Trailing Rose, the 11k, and the opponent is something that will NOT have a 10k Vanguard(Nova Grapplers, Murakumo, etc)
Hence, in Neo Nectar, to increase the chance of this opening, players would knowingly give up one Null Guard.

Though, builds with 4 Nulls have topped tournaments, just with less frequency.

Thats about the only exception for the 4 Null Guards.
Shadow Paladin is another deck that "Could" use only 3 Null Guards because of the stability of PBO's 13k, but 4 is the recommended number, with so many weak 6ks coming to your hand and the ability to tutor your 8k boosts.


Now we move onto 2 Null Guard builds.

Now, 2 Null guards is a very different choice from other decks.

In playing 2 Null Guards, you are consciously and willingly giving up guard power and almost all of your late game presence for faster speed and harder hitting earlier in the game.

A lot of players dont take into consideration "Speed" when building a deck, where it is a factor.
In the early game, boosted units which never need to be replaced for the rest of the game allow you to push in damage with ease.
Hence, in decks that can tutor their G1s, have a lot of G1s(like G1 Rush style decks), you can afford to play in 2 or less Null Guards.

However, be aware that although you have shed the heavy armor, you have lost a lot of your defense.
To compensate, you must play in many critical.
Even 8 is not considered enough to bring your speed up to such levels you can simply throw off your Null Guards.

Think of Null Guards as a heavy and sturdy shield.
Although it will be able to protect you from many things,  it is heavy and wont come into play until late game, where higher power matters.


Thats all for today.

Until next time, see ya.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Void Master -in- MLB

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing Void Master in MLB builds!

A Nubatama card from BT01, Void Master is a rather... ignorable card at first glance.

For starters, since Nubatama is not a clan that can stand alone, most of the cards in the clan are outright ignored.

Void Master has a very powerful ability: When his attack hits(anything), you can counter blast 1 to force the opponent to discard one card if they have more hand than you do.

However, the uses of this is highly limited, since most decks either have: No space to fit him, absolutely no desire to ride a 9k, use up their counter blast anyhow, and aim at maintaining a larger hand than the opponent.

Hence, from this, the only deck that would fit Void Master as a considered choice are decks that have G3 space, ability to tutor their G3 ride well, doesnt use up their counter blast much, and has trouble maintaining a large hand.

Now, if you think about it, MLB decks are precisely this.

With Wingal Brave to tutor their MLB ride, and the only counter blast in the deck being Blaster Blade, there are plenty of slots in the deck to fit Void Master, considering the rate at which MLB burns through their hand.

 Since MLB is already a mixed clan deck, theres nothing people can do to stop you!

Use it as an alternative, or alongside Baromedes, and play in 2. Void Master will apply large amounts of pressure on the opponent to guard and protect his units, allowing MLB and Baromedes to go in for damage.

So your G3 lineup would be something like:
3 MLB, 2 Void Master, 2 Baromedes


Another clan that could consider Void Master is Machining style Megacolony.

Unlike MLB, Megacolony lacks many tutor cards, but they do benefit from some things:

Their key units in that make up the power engine of the deck do not specify having a Megacolony Vanguard.

Machining Mantis and Hornet only look at Machining in the soul, their Stand locking units dont specify what vanguard you have. The only one that looks at clan is Combatant B, which only looks at the unit hes boosting.

Throw in one or two Void Master just to even out the card advantage gap.

Have fun

Until next time, see ya.

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Bouncer

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing Street Bouncer!
 
Street bouncer is a Nova Grappler card in set 5, which has a CIP effect to rest himself and a nova grappler behind him to draw 1 card.

But is it really worth it?

Theres been somewhat a contreversy between using and not using him.

Basically, in a nutshell, it reduces one attack to your opponent in exchange for one card.

However, with this one draw, its highly unlikely your amount of shield will change very much.

at the cost of Street Bouncer, you can get one more card.

But lets look at it another way.
Instead of using it as a draw source, think of it as a way to exchange your cards.

Similar to Shout.
If you use its effect, Street Bouncer becomes a 5k Intercept, much like Nemain of Shadow Paladins.
Its effect gives Nova Grapplers more defensive draw power, something the clan as a whole is lacking in.

Playing in one at the early game gives a free card, setting up your field much faster.

Now, notice that he doesnt specify you need to rest a G1.
You can play out a G3 behind, and put Street Bouncer in front, resting both and drawing one, in the case tat you have no G1s.

The next turn, use him to intercept, then move the G3 up for some actual damage dealing

Now, with his lower power, actually having him attacked and retired doesnt mean too much. In fact, it may even be a plus, given that thats one less attack to your vanguard, preserving your hand.
This does come back to bite you if your other lines are not well constructed, as an Asura Kaiser stand with only street bouncer is rather sad.




Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Unit Stories

Seriously these unit stories are filled with mind-blow.

Did you know that
Lohengrin and Skull Face
Are the same person(at least the body)?

The story somewhat goes like this:
Lohengrin was once the strongest and most powerful heavy knight of the kingdom, calling his sword the "Evil Cleaver", and being known to be braver than demons.
Best known for being a brother to all his friends and comrades with a carefree attitude, despite his scary barbarian like appearance.

Skull Face:
Carriers of the keys to "Tartarus Gate", which brings the dead from hell to this world.
A formerly proud and well known knight, he was very kindhearted and cared a lot for his comrades. After his team was sent by a certain cold blooded commander(Maha, btw), to their deaths, he disappeared.
 The next time he was seen on the battlefield, his face had become the face of the dead, a skull, and had no resemblance to the holy knight he once was.
 His once gleaming white armor has now been stained a dark unclean black, along with his heart. Eventually it will eat up the rest of his ego as well.

Notice their armor, and mostly the cape.


Mind = Blown yet?

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Murakumo concepts

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing Murakumo playing style, revamped!


I have two treats for you today: two ways to play Murakumo.

Now, as we all know, Murakumo is a dirt cheap clan, but tricky to build and very responsive to a players skill.

Quite the opposite to Neo Nectar, no?

Trivia, but Neo Nectar has recently been voted as the "most beginner friendly deck" in Vanguard. Word.


The first concept people have been playing Murakumo with is in Mixed Clan styles.

Now, while this solves the problem of not having any decent boosts by opening up potential to 4 more 8k boosts, this also will shut out the option of using Mandala Lord and ZANBAKU as your Vanguard, shutting out your 11ks.

Therefore, you have to use Kuramalord as your main Vanguard, giving you soul charge as well as counter blast to absolutely spam your Million Rat and Midnight Crow effects.

But, they're so weak! What do I do with such weak units?

Well, the trick lies in the Mix Clan concept.

Allow me to direct your attention to Cannon Gear.
When it comes into play, you must retire one of your RG.
Well, this works extremely well with Midnight Crow, where you want to be able to flood the field in the early game, but whoes effect kinda sucks in the late game, where power means more than numbers.
So, use either Million Rat or Midnight crow's effect to get a RG for 1 counter blast cost, and simply feed it to Cannon Gear!

Now, with Kurama Lord, you gain two things Murakumo doesnt take good use of: Counter Blast Cost, and Soul.

The trick lies with Megacolony.
By playing in some Lady Bomb and Master Fraud,  you can take good use of both of these costs, while getting advantage.

So, a decklist would look something like this.


4 Kuramalord
4 Master Fraud

4 Cannon Gear
3 Midnight Crow
4 Lady Bomb

4 Shijimamaru
4 Million Rat
3 Phantom Black
3 Leaf Mirage

4 Stand/4Crit/4 Draw/4 Heal
1 Evil Ferret


Well, this is all fine and dandy for mixed clans

But what if you dont want to play mixed clans?
What is a good up-to-date style of Murakumo to play?

8
4 Mandala Lord
2 Zanbaku
2 Musashi

10
4 Bloody Mist
3 Fushimi
3 Midnight Crow

15
4 Shijimamamaru
4 Million Rat
4 Leaf Mirage
3 Midareedge

17
Evil Ferret
4 Crit/4Stand/4Draw/4 Heal

Wait, what?
There are so many things wrong with this deck!
Its using so many of the weak useless cards!

Or... are there?

From previous styles, the Murakumo deck differs in the following ways:

Playing in Musashi
Playing in 3 Fushimi
Playing in 3 Midareedge

Lets start with Musashi.
 Now, the main problem with Murakumo decks is that they have low power output.
Murakumo is a control style deck, meaning that a good chunk of your attacks will be aimed at any vaguely threatening rear guard.
Hence, with a full field, MUSASHI will be able to attack at 12k power.

Although getting an 8k behind him will not be easy, even if you put a 6k behind him, his 18k total makes him a very good size to bully rear guards.
On top of that, once you stand him, he can attack at 12k, just large enough to hit Majesty Lord Blaster.
This is why we chose him.
That, and we already have 6 11k Vanguards. Why do we need even more options to ride? both are very good as V.

Moving on to Fushimi.
Now, I would normally recommend 2, but since theres one open slot for anything of 9k power and above, why not make it another Fushimi?

As I previously mentioned, Fushimi's effect allows him to shoot ANYTHING in the backrow.
Take out an early game corner Maron against RP
Take out an early game Wingal Brave
Take out that troublesome Cliff(since Blonde Eizel GP only plays like 6 G3 nowadays.


Putting a 6k(Million Rat) behind will give it a total of 15k Power + Triggers, so use this to your advantage and grab control of the game ASAP by taking out powerful FV units.



Our last "tech" is Midareedge.

Now, Murakumo formerly suffered from this ridiculous problem: Nothing. To. Boost.
 4 8ks and the 4 Million rat as boost is fixed, as with 3 Null guard, but what about the last slot?
That Vanguard's 10k boost is just too hard to achieve, so players have started playing in Midareedge.

With Evil ferret as your FV, you can call it to become a boost, and let it boost Midareedge for the early to mid game, before you use Evil Ferrets effect and call out some fighting power, and making Midaredge a boost.

Every attack is around 11k power, giving you the early game ability to burn through their shields or get some damage in, similar to how Neo Nectar plays their early game.

Also, Midaredge's on-hit-vanguard ability is quite useful, but dont bank on it searching out Mandala too often.

Thats all for today.
Until next time, see ya.

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Pen Pen Pendragon

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we will be discussing Pendragon!


Pendragon is the new Limit Break unit for Royal Paladins.
Unlike the other limit break units, whom have counter blast to activate an extremely powerful effect, Pendragon has something else: Searching for his allies.

Obviously, the search target for Pendragon would be Soul Saviour Dragon, because of her -When Ride effect, but you can also search for another Pendragon, which sets up a Soul Saviour play, as well as gives you a 5k power boost

and another shot at his LIMIT BREAK!

Lets start with an example decklist.

8
2 Soul Saviour Dragon
3 Knight of The White Dragon, Pendragon
3 Swordsman of Exploding Flames Baromedes

10
3 Blaster Blade
3 Lamorack
2 Akane
2 Gordon

14
4 Maron
3 Isolde
2 Pongal
3 Toypgal
2 Lian

18
1 Wingal Brave(FV)
1 Barcgal
1 Llew
2 Alabaster Owl
1 Epona
1 Flogal
1 Drummer
2 Sharon
3 Margal
1 Govanon
4 Elaine
(4 Stand/4Heal/4Crit/4Draw)

As you may have noticed, its more or less KOK/Barome/Saviour build, minus the KOK and with Pendragon instead

yes its very punny, taking out the King of Knight for Pendragon.

 Anyhows, most of the card choices are very straightforwards, and the only thing to see is the G0 lineup.

Although you start with Wingal Brave, one barcgal seems to be chilling out there.

Well, Barcgal was mainly a for-fun choice.
If you start off early with no Pongal and a Pendragon to start the game, ride barcgal.
Ride, superior ride next turn, jump up to G2 when the opponent doesnt realize it, and search out another blaster blade with Wingal Brave, and set up a good offensive the next turn with Pendragon.

Otherwise, use it as a 10k Shield.
Quite frankly it could be another isolde or Pongal or Toypugal

Play it for the Aichi.

Moving on to the trigger balance.
Do you have to use this messed up balance of triggers? Maxing out the variety?
No.
You can simply play Epona/Flogal/Govanon/Elaine and be set with that.

However, Royal Paladin is a clan that has a good variety of all the triggers(3 different crit, stand, and 2 different draw).
Hence, when up against a Royal Paladin deck(or Kagerou), you must look at what triggers they are using in order to determine their trigger balace.
If they play Alabaster Owl and Epona, as well as Llew, you might be up against anywhere from 3 to 12 criticals.
(yes we are going into high-ranker level discussion here, so less-than-experienced people may skip a bit.)

Hence, when playing a deck like Royal Paladins, it is the norm to play in all the different triggers, despite it not actually affecting the trigger balance.
Like, if you were playing 8 crit/4 draw, you would play in two llew and one govanon for no reason other than hiding your true trigger balance.

In this deck, its taken to the extreme.
In the early game, your opponent will be absolutely confabulated as to what your trigger balance is.
It could be anything from 0-12 Critical, 0-12 Stand, 0-8 Draw, and 0-4 heal, drastically affecting the possibility of their "best play".
Since, as we all know, the way to FIGHT a 12 stand/4 draw is very different from a 12 Crit/4 heal or a 8 crit/4 draw.

Now, The actual real trigger balance, 4/4/4/4, is for no reason other than its standard.
The criticals help against Blonde Eizel and Narukami decks and other 10k, whilst the stand on Baromedes helps against  THE END and Phantom Blaster Overlord style decks, the other top tiers who can TANK well.

With the balanced trigger balance, you cant really go wrong.

Thats all for today.

Pendragon appears to be a very flexible and general non-combo card, so the deck is mainly non combo-esque.
The only combo to speak of is the Soul Saviour Finish. As if thats very different from usual Royal Paladin.


See ya.

Thursday, May 3, 2012

EB03 Leak List

Extra Booster 03 - Calvary of Black Steel

EB03/001 魔王 ダッドリー・エンペラー RRR/Demon Emperor Dudley Emperor -SB
EB03/002 スペクトラル・デューク・ドラゴン RRR/Spectral Duke Dragon -GP
EB03/003 レックレス・エクスプレスRR/Reckless Express -SB
EB03/004 武神怪人 マスタービートルRR/Military Phantom Master Beetle -MC
EB03/005 白竜の騎士 ペンドラゴンRR/Knight of the White Dragon Pendragon -RP
EB03/006 始原の魔道士 イルドーナRR/Mage of Primordium Ildorna -SP
EB03/007 ドラゴニック・ロウキーパーRR/Dragonic Lawkeeper - KG
EB03/008 ジェリー・ビーンズR/Jelly Beans - SB
EB03/009 ダッドリー・デイジーR/Dudley Daisy -SB
EB03/010 妖艶なる幹部 レディ・バタフライR/Bewitching Lady Butterfly -MC
EB03/011 トキシック・トルーパーR/Toxic Trooper -MC
EB03/012 トキシック・ソルジャーR/Toxic Soldier-MC
EB03/013 ギガンテック・デストロイヤーR/Gigantic Destroyer -GP
EB03/014 黒竜の騎士 ヴォーティマーR/Knight of the Black Dragon Wartimer -GP
EB03/015 幼き黒竜 ヴォーティマーR/Infant Black Dragon Wartimer -GP
EB03/016 ダッドリー・ダグラスC/Dudley Douglas -SB
EB03/017 猛将 ザカリーC/Onslaught General Zachary -SB
EB03/018 フィールド・ドリラーC/Field Driller -SB
EB03/019 メディカル・マネージャーC/Medical Manager -SB
EB03/020 智将 ダーク・ブリンガーC/Wise General Dark Bringer -SB
EB03/021 カンフー・キッカーC/Kung Fu Kicker -SB
EB03/022 鉄拳怪人 ロリーポリーC/Iron Fist Phantom Roly-Poly -MC
EB03/023 改造盗賊 スティール・スパイダーC/Augmented Thief Steel Spider -MC
EB03/024 マシニング・モスキートC/Machining Mosquito -MC
EB03/025 害虫博士 マッドフライC/Professor Pest Mad Fly -MC
EB03/026 メガコロニー戦闘員CC/Mega Colony worker C -MC
EB03/027 アウェイキング・ドラゴンフライC/Awakening Dragonfly -MC
EB03/028 閃光の剣の戦乙女C/Battle Mistress of the Shining Sword -GP
EB03/029 漆黒の先駆け ヴォーティマーC/Spearhead of Darkness Wartimer -GP
EB03/030 刃の羽の戦乙女C/Battle Mistress of the Wings of Blades -GP
EB03/031 戦馬 レイジングストームC/War Horse Raging Storm -GP
EB03/032 蒼穹のファルコンナイトC/Falcon Knight of Firmament - GP
EB03/033 決意の騎士 ラモラックC/Knight of Determination Lamorac - RP
EB03/034 闘気の騎士 ドルドナC/Knight of Spirit Dordona - SP
EB03/035 十字撃ち ガープC/Cross Shot Garp -KG

  SP Cards
EB03/S01 魔王 ダッドリー・エンペラー SP
EB03/S02 スペクトラル・デューク・ドラゴンSP
EB03/S03 武神怪人 マスタービートルSP
EB03/S04 白竜の騎士 ペンドラゴンSP
EB03/S05 始原の魔道士 イルドーナSP
EB03/S06 ドラゴニック・ロウキーパーSP

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Primoridum

Hello everyone, and welcome to SO IMBA!,

Where we learn how to be a better card fighter.

I am your host, Rauzes, and today, we discuss another variant of Shadow Paladin: Based on the new Limit Break unit Ildorna

Formerly, Shadow Paladins had to rely almost 100% on the power of Phantom Blaster Dragon and Blaster Dark's Ride Chain.

However, with the release of Ildorna, Shadow Paladin has a cheaper and less defensive option available to them.

Ildorna is a unit that is about as good as Soul Saviour Dragon, with high power output when attacking the Vanguard.

 Here's an example deck list of a deck that utilizes Ildorna

8
4 Primordial Mage Ildorna
2 Dark Mage Babth Cath
2 Demon of the Silver Spear Guishion

10
4 Knight of Fighting Spirit Dordona
2 Dark Maiden Maha
2 Skull Witch Nemain
2 Dark Knight Rugoth/Cursed Lancer(either one)

15
4 Dark Sage Caron
3 Gururubau
3 Nostrum Witch Ahrianrod
3 Dark Shield Ma Gril
2 Darkside Pegasus

17
3 Grim Reaper
3 Death Feather Eagle
4 Darkside Trumpter
2 Abyss Freezer
4 Abyss Healer
1 Zappbau (FV)

Lets go over some of the Card Choices, shall we.

First off, Zappbau.
Because this deck is so fast and draw-heavy, you dont even need any skill with your First Vanguard!

Dark Side Pegasus:
Mainly used for food for Ildorna, he is one of the few cards that gives your units a decent power pump when coming into play, and becoming food straight afterward. Can easily be replaced with 1 more Ahrianrod and 1 Gururubau

Gururubau:
Because theres not other 7k Boost... And this guy can move up and start whacking the vanguard, and be eaten by Ildorna when you finally get a G2


Nemain:
With Ildorna, Nemain is no longer the main draw source, so you dont need too many around to feed your draws.

Babth Cath:
Free food for Ildorna. Nuff said?

Guishion:
With other builds of Shadow Paladin, there are no other options for G3, so Guishion is just another choice for the high power on attack.

Dordona over Rugoth:
Because Dordona is cooler looking kthxbai

So, the basic strategy is to power rush in the early game with many CRIT and STAND.
With the lowered draw count, the deck will be both easier to defend as well as tougher on the offense.
Even if you only have 2 Draw triggers, you will find your draw power is beyond powerful enough with so many Nemain and Ildorna
The increased 10k Vanilla count is supplemented by the use of STAND triggers, just keep the pressure on with Ildorna.

Although the main chain of attack would be RG -> VG -> RG, keep an eye on your trigger count in your deck.
If your stand triggers are only 1 or 2 remaining, whilst you have a high count of CRIT, consider the lower possibility of your RG's boost coming back to stand, and just eat it up with Ildorna
What about the other unit Ildorna needs to eat?

Well, use the unit that boosted him!
Om Nom Nom!

Call Darkside Pegasus. Power up RG Dordona.
Boost with Darkside Pegasus
Attack Vanguard. Ildorna gains 3k Power.
Activate Ildorna's effect,
LIMIT BREAK!
eating Darkside Pegasus and an Ahrianrod, draw 2 and Power +3k
Power: 10k + 6k + 3k+ 3k = 22k Power
Get! Stand Trigger! Stand Dordona(10k +2k Power)

On the other hand, if you have all your stand triggers already(Your opponent doesnt know that) attack with one RG, and eat up that RG and the unit behind it.

When playing the deck, keep into account that you are eating up your units at a very fast rate, and keep in mind how many of what unit grade are left before eating them up!

Thats all for Ildorna's deck.

Until next time, See ya!

7 Armor

Continuing on the story of the Gold Paladins, currently, they hold

FOUR of the seven sacred beast armors:

Armor of the Silver Wolf - Garmall
Armor of the Red Lion - Rugan, Blond Eizel
Armor of the Purple Elephant - Unknown
Armor of the Black Horse - Wortimer/Spectral Duke Dragon